Earnest Money vs. Down Payment vs. Cash to Close (Full $400K Example)
Read the full video transcript
The published captions, grouped by chapter. The video uses a fictional example and includes its original optional-toolkit mention.
0:00 · Four labels, one purchase
Earnest money. Down payment. Closing costs. Cash to close. Are those four separate bills? No—and one example will show you how they fit. Some labels tell you what the money pays for. Others tell you when it’s paid. Let’s follow a fictional four-hundred-thousand-dollar purchase, from money already paid to what’s still due.
0:23 · Two questions to keep separate
We’ll keep two questions separate: what does the purchase money cover, and how much remains unpaid? The down payment goes toward the home price. Closing costs cover upfront costs connected with the loan and the transaction. Earnest money is a deposit paid earlier under the purchase contract. When an applicable deposit is credited at closing, it helps fund the amount you already owe. Cash to close is the amount still due after applicable payments, credits, and adjustments.
0:56 · Down payment
Start with the home price: four hundred thousand dollars. Our fictional buyer chooses a five-percent down payment. That’s twenty thousand dollars toward the purchase price— not a fee on top of the price. Five percent is just the choice in this example, not a requirement or recommendation. For now, we’re identifying what that money covers. We haven’t yet worked out how much of the buyer’s purchase money was paid earlier.
1:24 · Closing costs and the $32,000 subtotal
Next, add twelve thousand dollars in sample all-in closing costs. That’s three percent of the home price, used only as a fictional planning assumption. Closing costs are separate from the down payment. They relate to getting the loan and completing the ownership transfer. Our all-in figure also includes modeled prepaids and initial escrow funding. Those are already inside the twelve thousand; don’t add them again. Twenty thousand plus twelve thousand gives us thirty-two thousand, before prior payments or credits. This is a subtotal—not yet the amount to bring to closing.
2:04 · Account for earnest money once
Now bring in the five thousand dollars this buyer already paid as earnest money. In this example, the full deposit is credited toward the completed purchase. We also assume zero seller credit and zero other adjustments. So, from the thirty-two-thousand-dollar subtotal, five thousand is already accounted for. About twenty-seven thousand remains due at closing. The deposit hasn’t made the purchase five thousand dollars cheaper. It means that portion was paid earlier. And we’re not assigning it exclusively to the down payment or to one particular closing-cost line.
2:40 · Reconcile money already paid and still due
Here’s the check: five thousand already paid, plus about twenty-seven thousand still due, equals thirty-two thousand in this fictional example. One purchase-related amount, paid at different times. This assumes the purchase closes and the deposit is credited. If a deal falls through, getting earnest money back depends on the contract, its conditions and deadlines, and what happened. It isn’t automatically refundable.
3:11 · Avoid subtracting the deposit twice
Here’s the mistake to avoid: subtracting the deposit twice. If your Loan Estimate or Closing Disclosure already accounts for earnest money, don’t take that cash-to-close number and subtract the same deposit again. Our example already counted the five thousand when it reached about twenty-seven thousand still due. There isn’t another five-thousand-dollar deduction waiting to happen. The useful question is: has this payment already been included in the calculation? Check that before changing any number.
3:45 · Check the Loan Estimate and Closing Disclosure
On a standard purchase Loan Estimate, page one summarizes estimated cash to close. Page two shows the calculation, including a deposit entry. On a standard purchase Closing Disclosure, page one summarizes cash to close, and page three shows its calculation, including the deposit. Compare the deposit with your payment records. An estimated deposit on a Loan Estimate is not, by itself, proof you’ve paid it. If something looks missing or wrong, ask your lender and settlement professional to reconcile it and confirm what remains due. Don’t adjust the official amount yourself.
4:26 · Credits and other adjustments
Real transactions can have credits and other adjustments that our simplified example leaves out. An applicable credit isn’t another payment you personally made earlier. Its treatment depends on the transaction and loan rules. That’s why this example teaches the relationship, not a universal cash-to-close formula. Your actual Closing Disclosure may differ. Ask: where is my deposit accounted for, which credits apply, and how do those entries lead to the remaining amount?
4:57 · Plan beyond closing
There’s one more distinction: cash to close isn’t your entire savings plan. Moving, setup costs, and savings you want to keep afterward sit outside this worked example. Money you retain is not all handed over at closing. The cushion you choose for planning also isn’t the same thing as any reserves your lender may require. Keep the purchase payment, other planned expenses, and money you want left afterward separate.
5:26 · Free guide and Cash Needed calculator
For the written explanation, start with the free guide linked below. Then use the free Cash Needed calculator at Home Buyers Path dot com to try your assumptions. It separates estimated money still due from a broader savings target. It can’t reproduce every adjustment on your closing paperwork or determine loan approval. If a deposit has already left your bank account, don’t deduct it again when planning from the balance you have today.
5:55 · Optional toolkit and the key takeaway
An optional paid Excel toolkit can help organize your assumptions and comparisons. Desktop Microsoft Excel is required and sold separately. The guide and calculator remain free. The key is simple: what does the money cover, what have you already paid, and what is still due? Keep those questions separate, and the four labels become much easier to follow.